Starry nights at Goldeneye
29 January 2009
It always helps to begin a trip upgraded. You hope it’s the sign of things to come and on this occasion, for my first visit to Jamaica, it was merely the beginning of a very special and unforgettable trip. Virgin Airlines flew us with great service and genuinely friendly flight attendants to Montego Bay for the then two hour transfer to Goldeneye, situated on the north east side of Jamaica in Oracabessa.
Seeking inspiration for penning a bestseller, my first question when checking into the splendid Ian Fleming house on Goldeneye was where was the desk he so famously wrote from? The actual desk was currently at the Imperial War Museum in London as part of the Ian Fleming exhibition, I was told, over a lethal rum punch with Goldeneye owner and Island Records founder Chris Blackwell. However his other desk was in the enormous living room just by the door leading out to the sea.
A wonderfully tranquil property, Goldeneye offers a selection of one to three bedroom cottages to rent as well as the three bedroom Fleming house. Situated on Jamaica’s North Shore, it’s a natural paradise that Chris has been careful to preserve, with really good food and an extremely friendly and efficient team running it all in a low key, high standard way.
The sea and lagoon that runs alongside the cottages is a playground for kayaking, jet ski’s or just gentle swims. The Gazebo is the main restaurant where guests can opt to chat to others or not. And most do, such is the casual ambience of the place and interesting array of people that go there.
Over the next few days Blackwell proceeded to indulge us in visiting three other of his beautiful properties, including his 2,600 acre private farm in the mountains, the magical Pantrepant, where I braved a swim in the freshest waters of a river I have ever dipped into (apart from the River Dee). At night one is led to the guest cottage by the soft glow of the stars – the only other house for miles is Chris’, shaded by the most incredible tree, which standing at dusk resembles an image straight out of a Tim Burton movie.
Sunset rum punch on the top of the hill at Noel Coward’s house Firefly overlooking Port Maria was surreal and positively eerie, though wonderful sensing the great wit and playwright’s spirit all around.
Our final stop before returning to grey London was to the Blue Mountains estate of Strawberry Hill, an elegant and long established hotel and spa of 19th century villas dotted around – where Bob Marley spent a lot of time amongst many other legends, no doubt chilling out in the tranquil atmosphere. This beautiful place has incredible views over Kingston which sparkles below you at night and resembles, as one guest there so perfectly put it, “a bejeweled princess’ gown.”
Through the eyes of Chris Blackwell, the most gracious and coolest host I have met, Jamaica is a truly special and simply unforgettable gem of an island to return to and rediscover every chance one can get!
Goldeneye and Strawberry Hill are two properties within the Island Outpost collection.
Kate Lenahan is FQR’s travel guru.
