So Sud Me
19 June 2009
If one could bottle the essence of the South of France, the combined scent would be of olive oil, garlic, lavender and the original Ambre Solaire suntan oil. If I closed my eyes, the smell of all those ingredients would transport me to that part of the world, as they are unique in my memory of the coast and the countryside that is the Côte d’Azur. Since man – or, rather, tourists – has discovered planes, trains and automobiles, the best way to get there now is to take a leisurely drive down from Paris. If the right route is taken, it’s a fabulous way to prepare you for even better to come.
Start off by spending the first night at Hôtel Le Bristol in Paris, which sets the tone for an elegant journey. Le Bristol is an oasis of calm and, more importantly, manners. A couple of years ago, the Mayor of Paris instigated a much needed “be polite to tourists” initiative for the city, its taxi drivers (when they can be found), waiters, shopkeepers and policemen. The last time I was there, I don’t believe anyone had quite graduated from the course, but one second in the lobby of Le Bristol reassures you that there is somewhere in the city where charm and helpfulness exists. Recently having undergone a substantial renovation, Le Bristol is based on one of the most elegant streets of Paris with stunning views from all its windows over the rooftops, and a beautiful garden in the summer for long, languid lunches. Reassured and relaxed, you are now ready for the journey.
Coming off the A6 just south of Lyon, an overnight stay at the exquisite 13th-century Château de Bagnols is highly recommended. Originally bought as a derelict wreck in 1987 by publishing-house owner Paul Hamlyn as a project for his wife, Helen, the Château is surrounded by a moat, with romantic rooms and suites straight out of Dangerous Liaisons. I stayed there once for three days during the height of an August heatwave and even though the swimming pool wasn’t yet built (forcing some Americans, no doubt from LA, to check out early), taking shelter within the cool stone-walled interior of the Château for the afternoons was perfectly fine, particularly after a long, delicious lunch served under the shady olive trees.
Onwards towards Nice, and a visit to Aix-en-Provence’s Restaurant Le Clos de La Violette introduces you perfectly to the best flavours of the local cuisine before heading off for a night at the beautifully tranquil Château Saint-Martin & Spa. Situated in Vence, the Château launched its stunning La Prairie Spa in August last year, and has just received a well-deserved Michelin star for the cooking skills of Yannick Franques, a chef to keep an eye on.
Hotel du Cap
If you can tear yourself away from the quiet elegance of the Château, the natural next step to keep up the experience of first-class service within a stunning location would be to complete the trip by checking into Château Saint-Martin & Spa’s sister hotel, the iconic Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc. One of the world’s most reputable hotels – glamorous, chic, very exclusive and frequented by the most famous names past and present, from movies to politics – it won’t leave much change in your pocket. However, it can’t be beaten for its location, ambience and people watching, and is therefore good value for money. Nearby, somewhere fun and local to eat – especially during the film festival – is Tétou for its bouillabaisse and beachfront location – but it’s strictly cash only which, depending on the size of your party, may require a bank heist to settle the rarely inexpensive bill.
-Kate Lenahan is FQR’s travel editor
Château de Bagnols, 334-7471 4000
Château Saint-Martin & Spa,+334-9358 0202
Le Clos de la Violette, +334-4223 3071
Hôtel du Cap-Eden-Roc, +334-9361 3901
Hôtel Le Bristol, +331-5343 4300
Tétou, +334-9363 7116
