LFW September 2009 Men’s Day – Part II
30 September 2009
Aside from the runway shows, British Fashion Council base camp also housed the ‘Fashion East’ presentations. This stuff is varied, cutting edge, and frequently humorous. Your man from FQR gets amongst it. This gets quite frantic; so do keep up team. First are Sibling – knitwear lunacy and visual impact merchants. Note sequin cricket jumper. Next is Mr. Hare shoes which are really rather smashing. Particularly like their new style tassel loafer. Marc Hare explains exactly how he gets hold of leather from the same place as Louis Vuitton.
The video installations by New Power Studio I can’t explain, least of all the model covered in cake. More cake follows though, so maybe this is a cake led trend. Now it gets really interesting in the vaults. The ‘Youth by Youth’ show has to be the most extreme exhibit. From the brand Jaiden rVa James, taking inspirations from Dorian Gray and Larry Clarks Kids, has given rise to some quite berserk bondage wear. A witty touch is the colour co-ordinated rubber gimp outfits with a tray of cup cakes. Now that’s what I call tasteful styling. Other engaging visual spectacles include the Black Ops fashion show collage projection. I ran into an original running mate of mine, Paul Brine from Far Fetch fashion, who along with me is holding it up for the mature styling crew; Smart chocolate brown and navy Gucci penny stance from the old school. I salute you Mr. Brine.
Unattended in one alcove I find an all black shopping trolley - contents branded by David Lindehall with accompanying t-shirt collection. A dark crypt Bauhaus meets Tesco scenario. Website worth investigation for more darkness.
A brief look at H by Harris quilted leather bags, luggage and laptop cases. Other bags from Christopher Shannon and Eastpak collaboration are vibrant dynamic and brilliant. More from this sharp eyed sportswear chap on the runway of the MAN show.
Due to excessive tea drinking, cake eating and socialising I managed to almost not get into the main event. My fourth row status as a result rather scuppered my vantage point for footage. Apologies. I’ll give you a brief overview. Concentrate, as they’re prone to blur into one show.
‘Naked Lunch’ by Kate Eary (inspired by William Burroughs Junky and Naked Lunch) was verging on costume and leaning towards intestinal. Her show resembled parts of the last scenes of The Fly performed by a children’s entertainer. Pass.
JW Anderson ‘played with elements of womenswear’ and managed to humiliate over a dozen young models in the process. Leather smocks, jerkins, fibre optic skirts and Lycra speak nothing to me about my life. Nor those poor lads by the looks on their sullen faces.
Christopher Shannon heavily references rave culture and his tracksuited Liverpool roots. Clean, sporty and modern, his pallet was brilliant aqua with white as a foil. Liking the Moschino tribute chain prints, he is one that won’t be disappearing. You can’t beat a cuffed tracksuit bottom and a co-ordinated Reebok Classic, but what a shame they played Halleluiah far too fast.
Finally the Topman Design collection. They show the most palatable stuff last, thinking the loopy gear before will make this look the best. It worked. Low-key sporty jackets and pants in black were definitely wearable and would translate directly to their shops. The black silk tailored jacket and suits were remarkable for a high street brand, even if this is their premium collection. I might have to test one of those fellas out. This lot know what they’re up to. They failed in one area though. No accompanying desert based capsule collection. Tut tut Topman.
