Travel Confidential: Frégate
17 December 2009
Writing of Seychelles, Somerset Maugham once mused,“Sometimes man hits upon a place to which he mysteriously belongs.” This woman certainly felt that when I returned in May to a part of the world I first visited four years previously and to which I longed to return. Unforgettable for the flour-like texture of its white beaches, the cloudless blue of its skies and the tranquil beauty of its landscape, this extraordinary collection of spectacular granite islands was as yet unmatched by anywhere else I’d seen on my travels.
Seychelles is situated off the south-eastern coast of Africa. First colonised by the French in 1756, it became a crown colony in 1903. It’s a classier neighbour of the more frequented and less interesting island of Mauritius. It has also managed to remain to this day one of the least spoilt destinations to visit, certainly assisted by the fact that few national airlines have access, which protects it both ecologically and architecturally.Most recently, The Four Seasons has opened there, but as its resorts are traditionally located on islands served by main airports (in this case, Mahé) it cannot begin to compete against the luxury of total privacy that a private island experience can offer.
For that reason an invitation to return to Seychelles, on this occasion to visit Frégate, the most remote and exclusive of the islands, was eagerly accepted. I flew overnight to Mahé on the twiceweekly Air Seychelles flight via Zurich, arriving in brilliant sunshine and the perfect heat of the year round equatorial temperature of 29°C. We sailed over to Frégate, an hour across the calm, clear Indian Ocean, passing just a couple of small, uninhabited islands before rounding into Frégate’s marina. One can get there in under 15 minutes by chopper or seaplane fromMahé, if preferred, but somehow this tranquil sail set the tone perfectly. Dockside we were met by the management dressed in Bermudas, crisp white shirts and Panama hats. Cool, scented hand towels and water proffered, one is then swept up to a villa in a golf buggy which you get to keep so you can buzz around the island whenever you like (another plus that most resorts don’t allow; instead, they keep you waiting for someone to drive you).
The villas have up to three bedrooms with en-suite bathrooms, outdoor showers, a large living room and floor-to-ceiling windows with full-length muslin curtains gently billowing in the warm wind. The interiors are built of native mahogany and the outdoor deck contains a Jacuzzi, dining area and day bed, as well as a stunning infinity pool. A little bell rings outside your courtyard door if the butler is bringing anything you need (room service, DVDs, iPod chargers) but, otherwise – as is the underlying theme of the island – you remain blissfully undisturbed.
Day visitors are not allowed and there are never more than 40 guests on the island. Any air or water traffic from outside is strictly monitored .The freedom of not being overlooked by anyone other than the birds allows you to jump naked, should you wish, into the pool and sunbathe on the deck as nature intended. Views are breathtaking; a spa treatment for the eyes as they rest on miles and miles of calm ocean. The sunrises and sunsets are spectacular with their rich hues of orange and reds.
Snakes do not exist on the island; instead, it’s the homeland of the critically endangered Seychelles magpie-robin of which there are fewer than 200 in the world, and a large number of giant tortoises – some of which live up to 200 years and can be found eating their way very slowly through the abundance of exotic vegetation and coconut trees.
There are activities on offer – but most days we opted for the utter luxury of having one of the pure white beaches to ourselves, our butler ready with a picnic or barbecue for lunch. It’s almost surreal to look around and not see a soul sharing this bit of paradise with you. Shade is provided by the granite rocks jutting out at either end of the beach, while shopping comes courtesy of Elizabeth Hurley – bikinis and kaftans.
On our last night I mentioned to another guest how hard it would be to go back into the fray of urban living after seven days of such serenity. An hour later our villa telephone rang to say our flight had been cancelled for 24 hours, enabling us to stay for one more special night. I can’t help feeling that even this was arranged by our ever thoughtful butler.
FOR UK READERS: Africa Travel (0845-450 1535; www.africatravel.co.uk) arranges tailormade holidays to Africa and the Indian Ocean. A seven-night trip to Frégate Island, including direct Air Seychelles flights, helicopter transfers and all meals and watersports, costs from £9,795.00 per person, based on two travelling.
FOR INTERNATIONAL READERS: tel: +49-69 8600 42980; e-mail: reservations@fregate.com; web: www.fregate.com.
- Kate Lenahan is FQR’s travel editor
