Milan – Day 3
by Tom Stubbs4 February 2010
Pringle made the brave move of screening a film they commissioned from David Shrigley. The fash’ lot don’t often do comedy. But this skewed take on the luxury knitwear industry slayed them in their aisles (well near the runway anyway).
The show was good too. A relief as I’m pals with their creative director Clare Waight Keller. Her march of gothic cable knits and medieval armoured inside-outer-wear cut an ominous swath. This will be favoured by the anointed tastemakers who love a bit of Bauhaus (group not movement). A narrow elegant overcoat appeared in faintly metallic Donegal hue and an evening jacket with a hopsack appearance stood out. Sophisticated colour balance and deft fabrication gave the collection international clout. A far cry from pre CWK runway efforts half a decade ago that was more reminiscent of the cartoon characters in the film. I interviewed her (see some footage) and she was bright and sparkling despite no sleep
Next, we have an appointment at the house of Ford. No photos or film allowed due to Tom’s desire for the collection to exist in a non-fashion-seasonally-changing manifestation. The collection evolves slowly and retains many of its characteristics. Ford’s signature shoulder line, luxury fabrics and rarefied approach to all aspects of a man’s wardrobe is unlike almost any other. It’s totally lux and it works. It’s lux turned up to 11. I’m particularly keen on the shirts that come with a tie bar. Those, plus the shoulder-line, are more than a little bit Edward Sexton/Tommy Nutter, The Godfathers of imposing grace and timeless suave.
Tom’s old gaff Gucci followed. A show opened with a bevy of neatly sculpted camel suits and jackets, teamed well with navy and chocolate roll necks. There were Gabicci-esque suede and knit cardies, narrow stone pants and there were plenty of snaffle loafers. I love a snaffle. I’m having a large snaffle carved as my gravestone, possibly with the blue and red webbing too. Gucci was great, I don’t care what detractors say about looking a bit like Top Man recently.
Versace loves a celeb. Their front row was graced by three of Internazionale’s footballers. I sneakily filmed them and got a filthy look from Mario 
Balotelli for my trouble. His pals Francesco Toldo and Sulley Ali Muntari didn’t catch me. I asked my Inter mad driver Federico his thoughts on the boys (see video). Also on Versace. The shows best bits were cocktail suits fit for a Series A player at a wedding, if that is your cup of tea.
I’ve given Moncler hard time of late, mainly that whole wet look nonsense that’s so popular. The Gamme Blue collection with Thom Browne, New York’s vaunted manufacturer of tiny suits, is also a cause for concern. They’re devaluing a decent sports heritage brand. They did put on a show, mind you. A whole barracks of young cadets slept in military symmetry on camp beds, until the show began. Commandant type figures in Thom Browne trimmed regalia trouped in and played Reveille- the wake up bugle call. They jumped up and donned daft ski/snow board gear designed by Browne. There were some good pieces, but the whole affair had something of the Hitler Youth about it with the Austrian Boy Scout uniformed men inspecting each outfit before it did its lap of honour.
From the sleep deprived of Scotland to the dormitory of Thom Browne’s bizarre ski academy in one, neat day. Who says fashion doesn’t make sense?
- Tom Stubbs is FQR’s online style editor.
