Die Another Day
Rolf Sachs has a high old time on a typical day out – for him at least – in St Moritz
8:25 -23°C, Blood Alcohol Content 0.02%. Stepping out of the door, the air is hard, the snow crisp, each step is accompanied by a creak, one’s breath throws mist. The sun has greeted the first peaks. One heads towards the Cresta Run. The Club’s secretary greets one over the loudspeaker, one looks towards the tower and acknowledges the greeting. The changing room is already packed, and there are lots of hellos, grüezis and bonjours. On go the steel-covered boots, padded gloves, body protection and, helmet under the arm, it’s off to the “box” (start), picking up one’s “skeleton” (sledge) on the way.
The Cresta Club, aka the St Moritz Tobogganing Club, is a private sports club founded in 1887. Its main goal is to practise and race on the naturally made ice run from St Moritz down to the village of Celerina. The run is similar to a Bob run, but you lie on the skeleton headfirst and reach speeds of up to 140km/h. The most famous and notorious bank is the Shuttlecock. If you are not well in control, you will fly out and automatically become a member of the Shuttlecock Club, which reunites each year, under the command of a yearly changing president, for a truly humorous, out-of-the-ordinary night.
9:12 The tower loudspeaker screeches one’s name… “to the box”. One’s pulse starts rising. Steel runners are placed on the blank ice. Concentration, last-minute stretching… The bell sounds, one grabs the handles, runs a few steps and throws oneself on the “machine”. The speed quickly picks up through the first few banks and then… it’s Shuttlecock. Hopefully, one battles – pulse still rising, adrenaline flowing – through the straight and the lower banks till one reaches the finish. Out of breath, full of emotions, finally awake and all the residue of the last vodka, which was still flowing in one’s veins, is finally gone. Touching BAC 0.01%.
Back to the clubhouse, again with lots of hello/hi greetings. Then it’s a coffee and the second run, hopefully with a better time. On returning, the clubhouse has filled up. A few jars of bull shot (the traditional Cresta nutrition) are floating through the crowd and a glass finds one’s hand. BAC 0.01°%-0.03%.
11:14 A third run. Positively a better time! A few cheers for and a celebration of the improved performance with a last bull.
12:04 Heading to the slopes accompanied by dark blue skies and sharp-edged light. A few runs and then it’s major decision time: Corviglia Club, Mathis’s, El Paradiso or Trutz? All four are marvellous places to enjoy an inspirational lunch with a bottle of Mayenfelder, Schloss Salanegg, a light red wine from the region, served chilled. Pushing BAC 0.04%.
The Corviglia Club, a ski club, is a very special private place, whose members have been friends for “generations”. Reto Mathis’s Marmite is the best restaurant on top of the world, serving truffles, foie gras, caviar or sabayon with superb wines. El Paradiso and Trutz are two beautifully located Alpine restaurants with great specialities.
After lunch, a quick stop at the bottom of the slope at Sergio Testa’s Hotel Salastrains, for a quick Irish coffee or a… schnapps. BAC 0.06%-?!%. Time: extremely variable.
16:00-17:30 Back in the village. Again it’s decision time: Hanselmann, Palace or Kulm Hotel, Glattfelder or possibly even a siesta?
Hanselmann is an old-fashioned, renowned patisserie. Palace is the place to see and be seen. Kulm is good for a quiet family tea, except if there are still lost souls in the Sunny Bar (the home of the Cresta riders); lunches tend to be extensive there. Glattfelder is a secret special hideaway for insiders.
If you’ve already had a few days in the valley, it’s certainly time for a siesta!
20:00 Drinks – no decisions necessary – at Mario’s in the Palace. He’s been there since everyone’s childhood and is the most charming barman in the world. Possibly flying BAC +++%.
21:30 Decision time! This time over dinner: Chesa Veglia, the Club, Drac’s, Krone or endless other succulent possibilities?
Chesa Veglia incorporates several restaurants and the Club, and is the most beautiful old house in St Moritz with beautiful people, a cosy ambience and it’s always a success! At Drac’s, get ready for a late night! Krone is a very local charming tavern with fondue specialities and many others.
00:00 Elevated BAC %. Now the going gets tough. It is Dracula time, the home of bloodlessness. A private club of free-spirited, convention-scorning souls. Dancing, laughing and spirit scratching till the early morning. Too much BAC %!
Good night!
– Rolf Sachs is an award-winning designer (www.rolfsachs.com)
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