Glamour with Gravitas
26 July 2010 - Online exclusive
Sheila Teague talks to FQR on Wright & Teague’s new collection; The Nuba Collection
1. Can you tell us about Wright & Teague and how it started?
We are passionate about the significance of jewellery throughout history and in creating meaning that flows through to the wearer, intellectually, spiritually and emotionally. We met at Central Saint Martin’s in the seventies and began working together in 1984. We are artist jewellers and our shared sensibility and interest in the balance between art, craft and fashion informs every aspect of our work.
2. Can you tell us about the Nuba collection and the story behind it?
We wanted to create a collection that spoke of the journey that gold has made across cultures, to make pieces that celebrated the inherent beauty of the metal and that was distinctly hand made in form. We used red thread and cords to enhance this quality, red being the colour of joy and renewal.
3. What inspired you to design it?
The initial inspiration was from Africa but soon extended to embrace signs and symbols that are a shared currency across the world. The Maghreb pendant is inscribed in Arabic script, ‘salaam alaikum’, ‘go in peace’ which we feel epitomises the philosophy of this collection.
4. Can you describe some of your favourite pieces in the collection?
Every piece is imbued with so much thought, love and attention that they are all favourites!
5. Can you describe some of the symbolism behind the pieces?
The dots and dashes that are engraved or in relief on some of the pieces, are inspired by tribal markings that often signify rites of passages. The dots represent the body within the cosmos and the dashes the direction and growth of the wearer’s future life.
6. How do you feel about the Nuba collection and did you enjoy designing it?
We really loved working on the Nuba collection. It was a very intense experience and we feel that the designs signify the whole philosophy of our work; the pieces are strong and serious but wearable.
The Nuba collection takes its initial inspiration from Africa, the cradle of the human race and develops to embrace signs and symbols that are a shared currency across the world.
Cross cultural references evident since Paleolithic times such as dots, representing the individual surrounded by the cosmos and dashes, showing direction and growth are carved into sculptural breastplate necklaces and rings. Hand forged collars, gaiters and armbands are inspired by grasses typical of the savannah that is a common, global, geographical feature, expressing connectivity. Fine engraving is drawn from tribal markings that often signify a rite of passage and are a vehicle to extend a person into a work of art; a journey from the natural to the supernatural.
The choice of materials, soft hued yellow gold highlighted with red; rubies, tiny beads and cords speak of continuity. Red, literally the colour of blood is a symbol of life and joy and gold the symbol of the sun and optimism. There is a dialectical tension between form and material that is resolved by the wearability and subtle tactility of the pieces.
Wright & Teague is the collective work of artist jewellers, Gary Wright and Sheila Teague, created and exhibited at their Mayfair gallery. They are inspired, aesthetically and intellectually by the premier role enjoyed by jewellery in all societies, tribal, modern and ancient, its deep rooted spiritual connection to ritual and heritage.
35 Dover Street, Mayfair, London W1S 4NQ
+44 (0)20 7629 2777, info@wrightandteague.com
Tags: The Nuba collection, Wright & Teague
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