Much has been written about tailor Doug Hayward and his stella roster of friends/clientele. Not by me, though, so I might well state some of the obvious stuff again. Following the illuminating piece in the current issue of Finch’s Quarterly on dressing Oscar winners I interviewed Audi Charles, who worked with Doug during the glamour-rampant Sixties and Seventies. Audi still works at the newly re-opened Mount Street shop, which appears as popular a stop-off as ever. While I was there David Cornwell (aka John Le Carre) slipped by, closely followed by Terence Stamp. I nabbed a swift interview with Mr. Stamp, who tells of his first meeting with Doug and of the suits made for film Modesty Blaise. Note use of semi Camp Parlare code when Terence mentions Doug having an eye on the ‘handbag’.

Doug Hayward was original pals with the burgeoning Sixties set that included Stamp, Terry O’Neill, Michael Caine, pretty much the lot. It has been said The Caine used Doug as part of his inspiration for the role of Alfie. He was apparently mustard with the ladies and his film star pals had to work with what was left. Hayward made the clothes for the film The Italian Job and the house tailoring style was, in its time, very akin to those fashionable affairs. A Hayward signature detail is the square cut gorge where lapel meets the collar. His sharp tailoring lines combined with a verve for making people feel good made him successful.

Hayward’s close friendships with upcoming stars led them to become customers whom in turn recommended him. These included Sir Lawrence Olivier, Noel Coward, Roger Moore (Hayward made the dinner suit in The Spy Who Loved Me, 1977) and Richard Burton. Doug was friends with, and shot by, David Bailey and holidayed with Lord Litchfield and the rest of the Mustique crew. There are also at least 30 Academy award winners known to be wearing Hayward when they picked up their Oscars.

The company is now under the new management of tailors Ritchie Charlton and Campbell Carey, who are working with the remaining staff. They’ll be launching a ready to wear line this autumn of high quality suits, shirts and an exclusive range of ties. I’m told the shop itself also will get a refurbishment, as the new lot appear to be about to spend a bit of handbag on the place. The shop regardless remains the social epicentre for those who occupied a world of original swinging London excitement and true, unadulterated glamour that most couldn’t imagine. Doug’s chair is still in good use (see video) and the spirit of Hayward’s chic tailoring  is very much alive. From all accounts I’ve heard, however, Doug himself was an irreplaceable one-off piece.

- Tom Stubbs is FQR’s online style editor

Hayward, 95 Mount Street, W1 K2 TA. Tel 0207499 5574

Tags: Sixties, Tailoring

Would you like to comment on this article?

You must be logged in to post a comment.