Persol – An Italian Story
by Tom Stubbs13 August 2008 - Online exclusive
When you start at Finch’s Quarterly, your standard issued kit consists of ‘The Giant Spotters Book of Watches’, a large fistful of invites and a pair of Persol sunglasses. The Persols have so far proved to been the most useful to one’s lifestyle. Persol is an Italian institution with a fantastic story attached. How the Italian love their sunglasses. On their scooters, indoors and outdoors, in bars at night, even the policeman: they love to wear their occhiali. There’s a special connection between Italians and sunglasses, and Persol is key to this bond. Founded in 1930 in Turin, it has defined Italian design beyond the realms of eyewear.
1917 in a courtyard in Turin, and photographer and inventor Giuseppe Ratti launched his company Berry, making ‘Protector’ goggles, for pilots and drivers. Supplied to the Army and Airforce, the goggles were soon adopted by civilian fliers and motorcycle racers, then by starlets and actors posing in their motorcars for style cache reasons. They were still fundamentally protective eyewear. Ratti’s next invention was Meflecto. The previously rigid arms were made flexible. The arrowhead hinge is taken from the swords of ancient warriors and is a signature feature. The ‘Victor Flex’ nose bridge with embedded steel spring delivered comfort and grip. In 1930 Ratti combined these elements in his first Persol models. “Per il sol” means “for the sun”. His imagery was crucial as ever. The smiling ‘Chinaman’ happily wearing the eyewear, as if life was enhanced, typified the spirit of the brand.
Actor Marcello Mastroianni’s lead in Fellini’s 1960 film La Dolce Vita almost permanently wore Persols. With sharp suits and British sports cars the look defined a period. The film, with others of the time, established Persol as “Italian design”.
Wearing sunglasses has a deeply rooted theatre and the projection of personas involved. “Glasses belong to the vast family of masks”, wrote Patrizia Magli in ‘Occhiali, visus visione: Fernomenologia di una protesi’ “Masks can be anything that comes between the surface of the face and the eye of the beholder. It acts upon the person wearing it, an instrument of metamomorphosis. It does not serve to cancel the face it conceals; on the contrary, it offers that face new ways of being.”
Maybe that’s why actors are so attracted to them. Italians are very attracted to Hollywood actors too. The symbiotic relationship goes to and fro. McQueen wore Persol in The Great Escape and in the
seminal The Thomas Crown Affair. Other loyal protagonists in life and on screen include, Paul Newman, Roberto Rossellini, Al Pacino, Robert De Niro, and Woody Allen. The list is compelling, right up to present day with Daniel Craig as the new Bond wearing Persol.
The brand presents The Persol Style award at the Venice film festival to the director who best embodies the values of Persol. Clooney is dying to win it I’ve heard. Shortlist to be announced soon. Hold tight George, there’s a queue forming here.
Visit Persol online at www.persol.com
Tags: film la dolce vita, Persol, ratti
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December 9th, 2008 at 12:12 pm
The best Persol sunglasses were the originals made by manufacture Ratti sadly they are just not made like they were used to be.
Some of the best vintage pieces can be found at Rare Vintage Sunglasses.
http://www.rarevintagesunglasses.com
December 20th, 2009 at 7:56 pm
I used to run pradas but after i bought a pair of persols a few years ago i realized i wanna run nothing but persol!
http://Www.therickardnilsson.com