Spencer Hart – Super Sharp Suiter

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‘In walked luck and you looked in time,
never look back, walk tall act fine’

A Spencer Hart suit is unmistakeable. They occupy a very specific, slick, neat space in menswear. It’s surprising that a designer who references so many key icons and points in mens style should end up with such a distinct signature product. Designer Nick Hart’s eye for razor edged menswear has been sharpened by an obsession with clothes from the age of 13.  “I worked in a tailor in Maidenhead in my holidays. I had a total obsession with clothes from that age. I was a Soul Boy and a David Bowie fanatic.”

The clipped tailoring discipline is evident, amongst other skills he honed as creative director at Kenzo. His suits look modish, but also present are slices of Sinatra and the Rat Pack, the finish of a young Sean Connery, and the verve of Miles Davis and John Coltrane. The lifestyle, music and cultural cross over drive Nick’s creativity.

“A great part of life was about what one wore. The Seventies was a rich era both culturally and for clothing. I was out four nights a week, and how you dressed was everything.” He sites Armani as the font of all forward thinking style from 1979 for the next five years.  L’Uomo Vogue was their bible. London’s club scene immersed him in the histories of Louis Jordan and Cab Callaway, and he became fascinated with Jazz musicians’ look and stance. “That Jazz Cat larger than life attitude. The atmosphere it conjures up.”

Also the look of early Sixties – Coltrane and Davis. “They misappropriated a middle class white look and gave it edge. I always liked that subversive element.”

Hart then imposes his own rubric upon men’s style. He’s very strict with his colour deployment and his cut. “I am a disciplinarian. I like to work with very narrow perimeters; otherwise things can become very costume drama. I was inspired by Malcolm X’s army of immaculately attired guys.” The fabric edit is as keen as mustard, while the lines are as sharp as a tack. British mohairs and Huddersfield worsteds in steel greys, chocolate brown, navy or black. Mainly single breasted with skinny lapels, with a night time’s accent on the pocket details and on the tiny collared shirts. Narrow ties in hard colours hit home like stiff Black Russians on the empty stomach of a crisp white shirt.

This is not a business affair. Cocktail suits with a hint of menace, sinister garb for metropolitan night manoeuvres, and uncompromising red carpet stances are what to expect. Nick has another label called simply Hart, and has also directed a stylish line with a Brit sartorial giant, called Aquascutum Ltd, which in itself was very special. He is ambitious. “I want to make Spencer Hart the biggest and most significant menswear brand to come out of Britain for the last thirty years. I want to become the next Paul Smith.”

Spencer Hart is not a look for lard arses. Nick’s grasp of what certain men want from a suit is testified to by notable exponents of his sleek vision. They include (brace yourselves) David Bowie, The Rolling Stones, George Michael, Anthony Kiedis, Kanye West, Ozzy Osborne, David Gray, and Andre 3000. The musical thread is plain. The appeal of the understated glamour is attractive to those whose business it is to cut through pedestrian fair like tailors sheers through calico. “I like sending people out in my clothes, when the viewer can’t put their finger on why the person looks as sharp as they do. It’s about the details, the texture and understatement. It’s slightly sinister.”

This operation isn’t all about stars however. The concentric swirl of the shops interior transports you to a polished yet moody mans world of Jazz, atmospheric lighting and pristine examples of the Hart look. You’re looked after in a rather special manner. I’ve witnessed customers in the shop converse with the team like knowing members of an exclusive club. They really get it here, looking you in the eye on a menswear savvy level.  I like it. I bring clients here, and they like it too.

Rebirth of the cool? Down at Spencer Harts place it’s like it never went away. His suggestion for cool is to check out David Bowie on a 1975 episode of Soultrain singing Golden Years.  “Its as good as it gets”.

• Welcome to Finch’s Quarterly
• Turnbull & Asser- Gentleman’s Outfitters of Distinction
• Travels with My Valentine IV
• Travels with My Valentine III

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One Response

1. Dean Balsamo Says:
   April 27th, 2009 at 8:52 pm

   As an American with sartorial interests on a visit to London last fall I of course visited Savile Road. The only establishment I set foot in was Spencer Hart’s and immediately I had a feeling of recognition, an “ah ha,” moment. Having grown up in the 1960’s I recognized influences in the cut of the suits I saw but at the same time his creations felt contemporary-I didn’t feel a retro vibe. The hues and fabric-everything added up to a real signature offering in my opinion. Although I didn’t get anything at the time i have the card in my desk ready for the next visit. Good article about someone whose work speaks to his love of the craft.

   Best

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